20 Aralık 2012 Perşembe

SHTF Electronics Part 1 - Basic Tools

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SHTFElectronics Basic Tools
PART ONE: Small Hand Tools
After I wrote up the little“SHTF Radio” article for wirecutter, I started to think a little bit further,and started to think about how I could support other people who might haveelectronics problems after the SHTF. I started to think about what’s in mytoolbox, and on my bench, sort of like the “What’s In YOUR Range Bag” articles that my fellow bloggers have posted.
Now, I’m sure most of youreading this already have quite an assortment of tools. People like us, whetherwe work on old cars, guns, airplanes, or just tinker around the house, havetools. Lots of tools. My wife used to say TOO MANY tools until she saw me pullsome weird looking stuff out of one of my toll boxes, and fixed a problem onher car in 15 minutes that the dealer wanted all day and $450 to fix.After that episode, wheneverI say I’m buying another special tool for something, she just smiles.
A lot of the common toolsmost of you have are “kinda sorta” suitable for electronics use, but buyingsome specialized items will make your electronics hobby far more pleasurable,and will surprisingly come in handy for a lot of other things, too.
I’ll start with small handtools first, and move on up to the more expensive, specialized stuff later.
As a general rule, I stay FARaway from “pre-packaged electronics technician’s tool kits” sold by companieslike Jensen Tools and others. Over the years I’ve found their assortments to belacking in variety, they include tools you’ll rarely (if ever) use, the qualityquestionable, and the prices outrageously high.
Build your own tool kit, onepiece at a time, and buy only the highest quality tools you can afford.
When I mention a specifictool company, keep in mind that I get NO kickbacks, free tools, or otherinducements. I’m just recommending tool companies that I’ve used, and own,tools from, and I’ve been doing this stuff for 50 years now. I know what works,what breaks, and what you can get away with!
Gee, where have we heardthings like that before?

And BTW....sorry for the crappy formatting of the pictures, and their placement. This damn blogger interface won't let me size and place things where I want to!

Looks like I'll have to crack out the HTML books again, and start doing it that way.

I have a very nice Micro$oft Word document, but when I imported it, it dropped ALL the pictures.

Oh, well........


PLIERS
You need some GOOD QUALITYlong nose, or ‘needle nose’ pliers, about 4-1/2 to 6” long. There are manydifferent kinds (smooth jaw, chain nose, serrated jaw, end nipper, flat jaw,curved jaw, etc), and the Xcelite catalog has SEVEN PAGES of long nose pliers!
The same applies to sidecutters. You NEED a good, sharp pair of them. If you do a lot of circuit boardwork, get a pair of flush cut pliers. They clip the leads off right at thesolder joint, and don’t leave a sharp point of the cut off lead sticking up,just waiting to snag your hands as you maneuver the board around on the bench.The Xcelite catalog also has seven pages of side cutters.
For long nose pliers, Iprefer the Xcelite ELN54 thin long nose model, and for more delicate work, Ilike their LN542 plier






                         




              ELN54                                                                                   LN542
Get the “Cushion Grip”handles if you can. Your hands will thank you!

For side cutters, I use theMS549J flush cut with a small head for restricted spaces, and the MS54J forgeneral use. For cutting larger leads, I use the S54NS, which have a coilspring to force them back open.
                      




 MS549J                                                               MS54J
Keep in mind that these smallpliers are NOT to be used for cutting, bending, or forming anything other thansoft copper wire! I loaned a pair to a guy at a job site once who brought themback with a series of round dents in the jaws, complaining that they wouldn’tcut anything. After I calmed down a bit that he’d ruined my $20 pliers, I askedhim what he was cutting, and he said “Wire, why?”. He showed me the “wire” hewas trying to cut, and it was copper-plated STEEL wire for his MiG welder. Thepliers looked like he’d tried to cut small screws with them, and they werecompletely useless for their intended purpose. If you want to install Cotterkeys (“Split Pins”) in your car, use your big old honkin’ Craftsman pliers, NOTyour rather delicate Xcelite electronics pliers!
You can download the entireXcelite catalog at:
www.apexhandtools.com/PDFs/Xcelite%20Catalog%20550620.pdf



WIRE STRIPPERS
Please, don’t use your teethto strip wire on a regular basis! When I was 10 years old or so, I was havingmy teeth cleaned, and the Dentist dug out a small piece of red plastic, andwondered out loud what I’d been “eating”. I looked at the piece, and told himit was from some small wire I had to strip, and his jaw about hit the floor.Besides running the risk of aself-extraction of your incisors, remember what Mom always said…”You don’t knowwhere that’s been!”, and keep your teeth for eating things.
While you can strip wire with your side cutters,it takes skill and experience to do so, and you’ll wind up cutting the end offa LOT of wire before you get the hang of it!
I have two differentstrippers, for different sizes of wire. They’re not with me now, but one pairwill handle up to #10 wire, while the other pair goes down to #24. They overlapa few sizes, but nobody makes a single pair that covers all the wire sizes Iwork with, so I have two pair.
They look like this:

The pictured ones are made byKlein Tools, whose catalog you can download from here:


http://www.kleintools.com/content/tool-catalog


You can also use one of the“Automatic” wire strippers if you have the room to do so, and these are reallynice if you’re stripping a lot of wires, like to make a wire harness. You’veprobably seen them, and they look like this:


These are made by IdealIndustries, and go by the name of “Stripmaster”. I’ve been using these since myhigh-school days in the 60’s, and if they’ve been around that long, they musthave something going for them!
Ideal is another fine toolmaker, and you can download their catalog here:
http://www.idealindustries.com/support/catalogs/

Snap Ring Pliers
You won’t need these veryoften when working with electronics, but when you do, you’ll need them. Get a smallpair, with changeable tips, and you should be good to go. Most consumerelectronics uses “E-rings” or “C- clips”, but occasionally you’ll find smallsnap rings used, especially in military equipment.


The dreaded “E-Ring” or “C-Clip”
I’ve never seen the two-piececlip in the center, but I’ll bet it’s fun to remove/install. Most of the onesyou’ll find are similar to the two in the upper right of the picture. You canpop them off using a small flat blade screw driver, and snap them back on withsome long nose pliers.
Be care, or they’ll go flyingacross the room, leading to their other name, a “Jesus clip”!
That’s it for this chapter.I’ll cover things like nut drivers, precision screwdrivers, hex keys, splinekeys, ball drivers, and other “drivers” in the next chapter.

SHTF Electronics Part 1 - Basic Tools (continued)

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SHTFElectronics Basic Tools
PART ONE: Small Hand Tools (continued)
Now that I’ve covered pliers,I’ll go on to ‘screwdrivery’ things. BTW, if you think I’ve missedany tools, or have a favorite in the categories I’m covering, please let meknow, and I’ll include it in an update to this.A good set of screwdrivers isessential for living our day-to-day lives. Just witness how many are stored inthe “junk drawer” in your kitchen! If you’re at all serious about working on carsor guns, you already have a good set of screwdrivers, both flat-blade andcross-point. While most electronics items can be taken apart and reassembledwith the smaller versions from your existing tool box, there are times whenyou’ll need what’s commonly called a Precision Screwdriver.  These tend to be more slender in comparisonwith the smallest ones you’ll find in your tool box, and the better ones have ahandle with a rotating knob on top so that you can hold the top, while spinningthe body.
Wiha makes excellent smallscrewdrivers, and I’ve been using them for years. They’re not cheap, but if youdon’t lose or abuse them, you’ll have them for life.



Besides flat-blade andcross-point, you can also get them with hex, Torx, PoziDriv, and “ball driver”ends in standard and metric sizes.
Wiha has all their offeringshere: http://www.wihatools.com/
They make VERY nice tools.
 
A WORD ABOUT SCREW HEADS AND SCREW DRIVE TYPES
A while back I had an articleabout the different types of screw heads. Everybody is familiar with the typethat takes a flat-blade screwdriver to turn (“Slotted”), and everybody has usedcross-point (“Phillips head”) screws,  along with hex (“ALLEN head”), and Torx(“star”).http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_drive



And for all the differenttypes of Screw Head shapes, here’s the entry for that.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_screw#Screw_head_shapes


NUTDRIVERS
Nutdrivers are one of thosegreat inventions that you won’t realize how handy they are until you’ve usedthem a few times. Then, when you don’t have a set handy, and have to dig outyour ¼” drive socket set, and fumble around for some loose bits, you’ll wonderhow you got along without them. This is especially true if you do a lot ofradio work like I do.
I like the complete sets fromXcelite, as shown below.


I’ve been using a set likethis since high-school, and if you buy a new set today, they look, feel, andeven smell like the ones I’ve beenusing for 40+ years now. There’s something about the plastic handles that has avery “distinct” odor. When I bought a new set a few years ago and opened themup, I was right back in Mr. Shaw’s Electricity Shop class!Get both the standard size,and the metric size, and you’ll be set for years.
 

BALL DRIVERS
I’m convinced that balldrivers are one of the better inventions in the tool world. If you’ve never usedone, and then somebody loans you a set, you’ll be running out to buy them assoon as you return the loaned set.Basically, they’re a hexdriver with the end ground into a “ball” shape so that you don’t have to insertthe tool straight into the screw you’re trying to turn, as shown in the picturebelow.









They work amazingly well forgetting at socket head cap screws in odd positions where you don’t have a‘straight shot’ at the top of the screw.A few years ago I saw theregular L-shaped “Allen keys” with the ball end on both the long and short legsof the wrench, and it was one of those “Why didn’t I think of that?” moments.
As usual, get both a standardset and metric set, and buy good ones. Cheap ball drivers will have the “ball”break off, leading to a stupefying amount of labor to get the busted ball outof the screw!
Bondhus makes nice sets, andyou can get their catalog here:
http://www.bondhus.com/index.html


Tuning/Alignment Tools a.k.a “Tweakers” or “DiddleSticks”
IF you do a lot of radiowork, you’re going to need a set of “tuning tools”. These are plastic shaftswith hex or screwdriver type ends. Some of them will have a small metal bladeso that the plastic doesn’t get chewed up when you run across a stuck slug in acoil or a stuck variable capacitor. The reason they’re made out of plastic, isthat if you sick a metal hex tool down into a coil slug, it will alter theinductance of the coil, making it impossible to tune.The same goes for trying toadjust small “trimmer” capacitors. A metal tool held by your hand will addenough capacitance-to-ground to throw off the circuit, making it verydifficult, or impossible, to tune properly.GC Electronics makes goodkits of these, and you can get them direct, through Amazon, and probably eBay.I’ve had mine for so long that I haven’t had to replace them, so I’m not up onwhere to buy them, other than my favorite little Hole-In-The-Wall electronicsstore. Radio Shack *used* to sell them, but I can’t find them on their website.
http://www.gcelectronics.com/








OTHER DRIVERS
Xcelite also makes a niftyset of hex drivers, and spline and Bristol  drivers (VERY handy for Hallicrafters andCollins Radio work!) that look like these:


The spline and Bristol driver sets looksidentical, except the shaft of the bit is spline-shaped or Bristol-shaped,rather than hex.Yes, you can use the hexdrivers (“Allen Keys”) that look like the letter “L”, but these are far betterfor getting into tight spots, and have a much longer reach.Again, get both the standardand metric sizes. Bristolis a world of it’s own!


Other Miscellaneous Tools
One tool which I came acrossis a specialty tool used to remove the circular knurled nuts that hold thingslike switches or phone jacks to panels.  You can get them in different sizes, so besure you know what size you’ll need, or you’ll wind up with multiples of thesame size, like I have.
Here’s what they look like, andthis one is from Stewart-MacDonald Company, a place that sells tools forstringed instrument repair.



Screw and Nut Starters
The most common screwstarters are the ones that have a “split blade” which wedges the blade into theslot on the screw, like below:


This one will do both slottedand cross-point screws. One tip I’ve used in the past has been to put a pieceof double-sided tape on the end of my finger, and stick the nut/screw to it.
Heathkit and Knight-Kit used to include a nice little plastic tube that would hold small hex nuts while you inserted the screw from the other side. I had a pair of these, but lost them quite some time ago. In a pinch, you can use a length of heat shrinkable tubing that fits the nut, although that starts to get expensive if you have a lot of small hex nuts to install.

That’s it for thisinstallment. Next time I’ll cover soldering and desoldering.

*MY* Favorite Christmas Song

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Blame Borepatch....he started it!

Enjoy!



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"Bah, humbug!" No, that's too strong
'Cause it is my favorite holiday
But all this year's been a busy blur
Don't think I have the energy
To add to my already mad rush
Just 'cause it's 'tis the season.
The perfect gift for me would be
Completions and connections left from
Last year, ski shop,
Encounter, most interesting.
Had his number but never the time
Most of '81 passed along those lines.
So deck those halls, trim those trees
Raise up cups of Christmas cheer,
I just need to catch my breath,
Christmas by myself this year.
Calendar picture, frozen landscape,
Chilled this room for twenty-four days,
Evergreens, sparkling snow
Get this winter over with!
Flashback to springtime, saw him again,
Would've been good to go for lunch,
Couldn't agree when we were both free,
We tried, we said we'd keep in touch.
Didn't, of course, 'til summertime,
Out to the beach to his boat could I join him?
No, this time it was me,
Sunburn in the third degree.
Now the calendar's just one page
And, of course, I am excited
Tonight's the night, but I've set my mind
Not to do too much about it.
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
But I think I'll miss this one this year.
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
But I think I'll miss this one this year.
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
But I think I'll miss this one this year.
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
But I think I'll miss this one this year.
Hardly dashing through the snow
Cause I bundled up too tight
Last minute have-to-do's
A few cards a few calls
'Cause it's r-s-v-p
No thanks, no party lights
It's Christmas Eve, gonna relax
Turned down all of my invites.Last fall I had a night to myself,
Same guy called, halloween party,
Waited all night for him to show,
This time his car wouldn't go,
Forget it, it's cold, it's getting late,
Trudge on home to celebrate
In a quiet way, unwind
Doing Christmas right this time.
A&P has provided me
With the world's smallest turkey
Already in the oven, nice and hot
Oh damn! Guess what I forgot?
So on with the boots, back out in the snow
To the only all-night grocery,
When what to my wondering eyes should appear
In the line is that guy I've been chasing all year!
"I'm spending this one alone," he said.
"Need a break; this year's been crazy."
I said, "Me too, but why are you?
You mean you forgot cranberries too?"
Then suddenly we laughed and laughed
Caught on to what was happening
That Christmas magic's brought this tale
To a very happy ending! "
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
Couldn't miss this one this year!
Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!
Couldn't miss this one this year!


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Ugh....DEAD Battery and NO MORE AUTOZONE FOR ME!

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The wife and I went out to my Jeep last night on our way out to dinner.

I put in the key, turned it on, and BRAAAAAAAAP!

The lovely sound of a solenoid *trying* to engage, and the battery not having enough juice to pul it in, and crank the engine.

I didn't leave any of the lights on, so, rather mystified, we took her car to dinner.

I put my charger on it when we got back home, and it proceeded to max out the charger at 10 Amps. I left it sit for a couple of hours, and when I checked it again, it was still pumping 10 Amps into the battery, so I let it charge all night long.

This morning it had dropped down to around 2 Amps, so I pulled the charger off, and checked the resting voltage.

Uh-oh....11.48 Volts!

It was enough to start the car with (barely!), and after it started I put the voltmeter back on the battery, and it showed 14.6 Volts, indicating the alternator was doing it's best to pump some charge back into the battery.

I let it run for about 30 minutes, and checked the engine off voltage, and it was back to ~11.5 Volts.....NOT a good sign.

Came back in the house, and started battery shopping on line.

Since this car has the 5.7 L Hemi, AND the Class-IV trailer towing package, it came with the heavy-duty cooling system, an oil cooler, a 160 Amp alternator, and the biggest battery I've ever seen outside of a Cat Diesel.

Since I always use a Deep Cycle battery due to the radio gear I carry, and Optima does NOT make a Group 72 size battery I was pretty limited in where I could buy a battery.

I wound up going to (UGH!) AutoZone.

BUT.....since I also needed a better charger, wiper blades for our 4 cars (it's rainy season out here), some washer fluid, and a bunch of other miscellaneous auto stuff, I went down the street to O'Reilly's to buy all the other stuff.

When I took the defunct battery out of the car, I noticed the end of the case by the positive post was HOT, much hotter than the other end of the case, and it was bulged out, so it looks like that cell developed a short, or very high leakage. This is probably a result of my leaving my Kenwood TM-D710 radio and GPS connected while I was gone for 3 weeks last year on a launch, and had a completely dead battery when I got back.

Standard automotive ("SLI", for Starting, Lighting, and Ignition) batteries do NOT take kindly to
1) Having a slow, constant drain on them
and
2) Being discharged and LEFT discharged for any length of time.

They're designed to put out a huge blast of current to start the engine, and then get recharged immediately.

Now here's where it gets interesting. When I took the dead battery back for my $12 core credit, there was an AutoZoner pushing a cart back in the store that he had previously used to help a young lady carry her stuff out to her car. I asked the guy if He could lug the battery inside for me, and he said he was "too busy".

DUH!

So, I lug all 55 pounds of DEAD battery into the store by myself.
I'm in line at the "Parts" counter, where I had picked up the battery earlier, balancing it on a display rack. Then this guy behind the parts counter says "All of you people, the line starts over there", pointing to where the normal checkout line for people that get their own stuff go.

And there's about 25 people in line!

So I start to come forward so I can put the battery on the counter, and the guy goes "Go to the END OF THE LINE!". I say I just want to put the battery on the counter because its heavy, and he says again "Go to the END OF THE LINE!", and he seems to be getting testy.

I say again that I just want to put the battery on the counter because it's really heavy, and he spouts off "I don't care. GO TO THE END OF THE LINE. NOW!".

By this time some of the other people are saying to just "Let the old guy put the battery down, fer Pete's sake", and the guy starts yelling.

"NO! THE END OF THE LINE IS THERE! GO GET IN THE LINE!"

About this time (a good 15 minutes) I decided I'd had enough. I dump the battery down on the floor and state "KEEP the damn core charge. I will NEVER set foot in an AutoZone again!", and start walking out.

A couple of people applauded, and one of them held the door for me.

From now on O'Reilly's gets ALL my auto parts business.
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New Little SHTF Radio! The Kaito KA600 Voyager Pro

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Kaito makes some decent radios for the money, as does Tecsun. I have a Tecsun PL-660, and I really like it. I think it's a bit more sensitive than my little Grundig G3, but I forgot to take it with me the last time I went out to sea. I *will* take it out on the next launch, though.

So the other day I received an email from KaitoUSA with a special offer to buy one of their new radios at an introductory price, with free shipping.

Even though I have plenty of receivers (just ask my wife!), I figured for $60 and free shipping, what did I have to lose?

The newest addition here is the Kaito KA600 "Voyager Pro", and man, does this thing have features!




It covers the AM radio band, the FM radio band (stereo with the included ear buds), all of the NOAA Weather Radio channels, with a "Severe Weather Alert" function, and it covers the shortwave bands from 2.3MHz to 23.0MHz, all nicely divided up, and available as "Meter Bands" for those that don't speak frequency.

It has both a hand-crank dynamo for charging it's own NiMH battery pack (included), and a solar cell that will run the radio without any batteries at all. AND...it takes 3 "AA" batteries to run the radio with, something that an awful lot of these "Solar/Hand Crank" radios won't.

It has a very bright 3-LED flashlight in one side, and the back of the fold-out solar panel has a reading light.

And it has a standard clock/alarm/calendar function with multiple timers, a snooze button, and a temperature/humidity display.

The neat thing about this one is that it has  USB jack on the back panel that you can use to charge your cellphone using the built-in hand-crank, -OR- you can charge the radio the radio's internal battery by plugging it into your PC.

So far I've just checked out the AM, FM, and NOAA Weather Radio functions, and it seems to do the job very well, even with the telescopic antenna all the way down.

The only downside to this little guy, at least to me, is that it doesn't have a BFO, so you can't listen to Amateur Radio operators, or any other group that uses Single Sideband.

Considering all the other things it does, and the fact that you can get it for $80 on Amazon, I think it's money well spent, and if you've had an "Emergency Radio" on your list, then get this one.

I highly recommend it!
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16 Aralık 2012 Pazar

THINK... are your 'home defense' weapons really there for you?

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"
I have a question" was the text I got one evening a short time ago.

Princess knew I was in an important meeting, so the text would not have come lightly. As we had just finished the goodbyes, I hit speed dial on the way back to my vehicle. "What's up?"

"I don't want you to worry, but I have a question. Is the gun in the XXXXXXX the same as the one in the XXXXXXX?"

"Huh?" I answered intelligently...

"Does it work the same?"

At this point, with a bit of anxious questioning on my part, I was informed she had heard a noise outside and, intelligent girl that she is, immediately armed herself. Not to go outside and play commando, but just as insurance while she went about her business in the home. I assured her the pistol she had next to her worked exactly the same as the one she had learned to shoot with, and was in exactly the condition she knew the others to be.

In this case.... ready to fire by one simple action. Pulling the trigger.

The conversation revealed a flaw in our home defense planning, and an inexcusable one on my part. You see, Princess is not a shooter.... but she's a bright lady and has learned to handle pistols well enough to use them for their intended purpose... self defense. Not as CCW, but most certainly around the home. She's more than demonstrated the capacity and willingness to handle (and use) weapons in her own self defense. She's a lot like the main character in 'Quigley Down Under' in that way, just after he used a Colt pistol to dispatch the evil bad guy. "Said I had no use for a pistol... didn't say I don't know how to use one".

So, it falls upon me, as the house expert, to see to home defense weapons (as well as plumbing repairs, dealing with the woodstove, and most of the dishes. In return, I never have to touch laundry... and I see that as a fair bargain).

Her question pointed out a problem. While *I* had plans, procedures, and safety checks... I hadn't made her aware of them in enough detail. With her not being a shooter, I had covered a few basics, assured her ability and judgement where safety is concerned, and left it at that.

My mistake, and one rectified as quickly as I arrived home. The noise? Some critter in the night perhaps, but never a threat or bother. She was just being careful. You can be assured... I announced myself before I walked in (g).

What I hadn't explained well enough to her was this; In my 'home defense weapon' plans, every pistol available (without unlocking something complicated) is in the same condition. In our case, having no children in the home nor adult visitors of questionable competence, we have weapons hidden well but still readily available. Each is in the same condition... round chambered, no external safety engaged, and ready to fire on pulling the trigger.

Each pistol is either a Glock pattern with a 'Safe Action', or has a long double action pull. They are highly unlikely to go off by accident, and are stored in such a way that their triggers are protected.

The idea is simple. If we need them, they are there right now, ready right now, and are safe until then. Nothing to manipulate under pressure, nothing to remember before use, no intricate puzzles to solve. Two of the pistols have laser sighting devices, but this matters little. They don't need to be switched on to have the weapons function perfectly.

The fact that Princess is a component of the plan, and is not a shooting enthusiast, has a great deal to do with the thinking behind it. Any defensive weapon in the home needs to be simple enough that she can use them well under extreme pressure. She's not going to remember to sweep the safety on a 1911 pattern, nor cycle the action on a pistol with an empty chamber. Her judgement can be trusted, and she's more than intelligent enough to keep her finger off the trigger till she needs to fire.... but she's not going to practice with any frequency nor build up instinctive muscle memory (In that... she's not much different from most of the police officers in this nation, who's shooting experience revolves around occasional mandated qualifications).

Long guns are different, and not part of any plans involving Princess. For the record, they too are stored in a specific condition. Chamber empty, safety off, ready to fire upon working the action. Guns locked in the safe? Totally different situation, totally different condition.

Should our home have children visiting, or if by chance we ever had adults staying with us who were not proven safe shooters, all would be locked safely away.

It's an important topic, and one worth considering thoughtfully. Each situation is different, and the people who occupy the home will cause any plan to be modified as required. Where a single person living in a secure area might simply leave a weapon in a nightstand drawer, another person might need something more secure, such as a coded safe. Once that's decided, further thought must be given to weapon condition. Round in the chamber, or not? Safety on, or not? Magazine in the pistol, or not?

Each situation is different, and each persons ability and training must be taken into account. Also, the possibility of split second decisions being necessary under immense life threatening pressure.... and how different people can react to that.

Are there children in the home? Is a break in while the homeowner is away a reasonable threat? Is a home invasion of an occupied house a reasonable threat? All these and more must be thought of ahead of time, and decisions made on dealing with them.

Most of all... most importantly... careful plans must be made in advance of trouble... and as I learned, everyone concerned needs to know what they are.



These are not idle thoughts... especially in a world turning more dangerous by the minute.   When things go bad in a hard way, there is seldom a lot of warning.  Do your planning now, and work your plan.






Thank for stopping in and spending time with 'Ol Carteach. If you are of a mind to, don't hesitate to click on some of the ads posted here and there on the site. You don't need to buy a thing, or even read them, but each click does throw a few pennies into the ammo fund.... and these days that's a lot!

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Feeding a pocket .380 defensive pistol

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Long ago, the Carteach armory held a few .380 pistols. A venerable Walther PPK, a Bersa, and a Colt Government Model .380. The PPK was stylish, but fussy. The Bersa was well built and tough, but heavy. The Colt..... the Colt was something special. While just a bit heavy for a sub-compact pocket pistol, it was leagues ahead of it's pocket-pistol competition in power. The .32 acp pipsqueaks had nothing compared to the awesome defensive knockdown power of the.380 (Okay... that was over the top). Besides... it was a miniature Colt Government Model, and who could resist that?

Back then, nobody knew nuthin about defensive loadings in pocket pistol calibers. Sure, a few small ammo houses made some impressive stuff for the little poppers, but it wasn't going to be found in the average gun store. Add in the fact that all the factory ammo was loaded to function in blow-back pocket pistols, while the Colt was a locked breach and could handle somewhat hotter foodstuffs than the average .380.

The answer came in handloading. Carteach cooked up a rather snappy little load using a 90 grain Hornady hollowpoint and a ragged edge thrust from a stiff load of fast powder. It made that little Colt into quite a barker, but it performed far outside the envelope of factory .380 ammunition at the time.

Those times are past, and the little Colt went to a new home many years ago. It's special loading went to the back of the ammo locker, catching dust with some of the other specialty loads built over the years.

Spin the dial forward, and now pocket .380s are becoming quite the rage. They are, in fact, filling a downright important niche in a self defense role. Small, outrageously light, and amazingly easy to carry, new pocket poppers such as the Ruger LCP have taken the self defense market by storm. Coupled with one of the new compact laser sighting devices such as the Laserlyte unit, pistols like the LCP are becoming a staple of pocket carry in a society more comfortable each day with the idea of self defense as a human right.

Carteach is not immune to such attractions, and acquired his own LCP. It was quickly adopted into carry rotation, filling it's role whenever the situation held against carrying a larger pistol on the belt.

When the little Elsi Pea came home, the old special .380 handloads were pulled from retirement and pressed back into service. Built for the somewhat heavier Colt, the hot ammo surely made the pocket Ruger come to life with an impressive voice.

Looking at how popular the pop-squeak pocket .380 pistols have become as a defensive alternative, it was only a matter of time till the ammunition makers an$wered the call for a high end loading to match the new market. In a world where people will willingly pay $1 a round for ammunition that offers a distinct advantage in performance, it's no wonder companies such as Federal got busy and designed something impressive to fill peoples needs.


As Carteach is want to do when such thoughts occur, a note was sent off to the folks at Bulkammo.com asking what the latest and greatest thing on the market is. Steve Otterbacher was kind enough to describe some of what was on hand, and this Federal Hydroshock loading was chosen for a look-see.

Many... many.... years ago I had the fun of sharing the range with a friendly young fellow. Since the man was shooting an MP-5, sidling up for a look see was a no-brainer. In conversation, the gentleman shared that he was a trainer with the FBI..... and the discussion turned shooty technical from there on out. The main topic was Federal Hydroshock, and the results of testing the FBI had performed on it. Since then, finding Hydroshock ammo in a Carteach pistol has been anything but... shocking. (I know... Booo... Hisss.... I couldn't help myself).

Now that Federal has introduced the same bullet type in a version specifically for the .380, testing it became another no-brainer.

The Ruger LCP and it's cousins present a particular problem for defensive ammunition makers. Their short barrels don't offer a lot of room to build velocity, and their small bores don't offer room for a heavy bullet. The trick is to get some kind of decent velocity from the tiny pistol, while using it to propel a bullet specifically designed to perform at that velocity.

Federal seems to have done a fair job of it. The Hydroshock design bullet in the .380acp offering is thin walled enough to encourage expansion, even at pocket pistol velocities. Speaking of speed.... Federal was able to get their factory load spitting out the short LCP barrel every bit as fast as Carteach's hot handload.

Spending some time with a chronograph, the numbers make the results pretty clear. In the following graph, the Federal round is compared to Fiocchi ball, Carteach's special hot handload, and just for fun.... some Remington 9x19 124 grain Golden Saber ammunition fired from a short barrel S&W M&P 9c. Both muzzle velocity and muzzle energy were compared.




Function in the LCP was flawless, as well as in several other .380 pistols. The Federal Hydroshock did manage to pick up another 75 fps when fired from a longer barreled Bersa pistol, something not unexpected.

Overall impressions? It's good ammunition, and can easily hold it's own in a tough market where performance is the only criteria. Yes... even with Bulkammo.com's good prices, it's expensive stuff. That said, the pocket . 380 pistols don't typically get heavy range use. Shooting enough cheaper ball to break in the pistol is not a chore, and switching to the high end ammo for carry is reasonable. Running enough of the carry ammo through the pistol to assure flawless function should go without saying.